Beneath the Ashes: Exploring the Booming Wine Industry of Ancient Pompeii
Pompeii was always meant to be a "center of attraction," not just in the aftermath of the famous eruption, but long before.
Pompeii was a flourishing hub of commerce well before the infamous eruption. Its strategic location made it a prime stop along the ancient trade routes that linked the East and the West, and its river port facilitated the transportation of goods up and down the Sarno River, drawing in a diverse crowd of merchants and traders with imported and locally produced wines being among its most popular commodities. Pompeii was at the forefront of the wine trade, perhaps even the first wine trading center in history!
The region's fertile soil and ideal climate for growing grapes made it a prime location for wine production, resulting in many of the vine types grown in the area being unique to the region. The countryside surrounding Pompeii was dotted with villas dedicated to wine production, providing the town with a ready market. Even the inns produced their own local vintages, growing grapes and brewing on the premises. The types of wines sold in Pompeii and their origins can be identified from the wine amphorae that have been discovered. The amphorae were typically labeled, showing their place of origin and the type of wine they contained. Even if a label was missing, the shape and material of the amphorae could give clues to their origin.
One of the popular wine shops in Pompeii was the House of Amarantus, a perfect place to discover the different types of wine available for sale. An election notice near the property identified it as a wine dealer, and the interior was filled with full containers of wine stacked in the garden and the house. Many of the amphorae were inscribed in Greek, with archaeologists estimating that 30 of the vessels came from Crete. Besides Crete, other popular foreign wines sold in Pompeii came from Tauromenium (Taormina) in Sicily, and amphorae containing the wine of Cos have also been found. Vintages were even imported from as far as Turkey, reflecting the cosmopolitan tastes of the locals.
The most popular types of wine in Pompeii, however, were the local Campanian wines. A whole stack was stored in the garden area of the House of Amarantus. Amongst the many local wines identified in Pompeii were Falernus, the famous Falerian wine, and Setian (area near Latina in the Lazio region) wine. Wines from local Campanian towns such as Sorrento, Cumae, and Capua were also sold. Pompeii itself was a major wine-producing hub, with Boscoreale nearby being famous the higher quality of its wines.
Wine commerce was a significant source of income for Pompeii's inhabitants. Many of the city's merchants and shopkeepers were involved in the wine trade, either by producing their own wine or by importing and exporting it. Large-scale wine production was mainly carried out by wealthy landowners, while small-scale production was carried out by local farmers.
Apart from its role in the economy, wine also played a significant role in the social and cultural life of Pompeii. Wine consumption was a common activity among the city's inhabitants and was often enjoyed in taverns and bars. Many taverns were decorated with frescoes and mosaics depicting scenes of wine-making and drinking, and many even had individual cubicles or rooms for privacy.
Wine was often consumed in large quantities, and many taverns had large earthenware jars called ‘dolia’, which held up to several liters of wine. Wine was also consumed in a variety of forms, including undiluted, mixed with water, or mixed with other ingredients such as honey or herbs. In addition to wine, the city had a thriving food culture, with seafood being a particular specialty. Freshly caught sea bass and oysters from the nearby Bay of Naples were especially popular, alongside other local delicacies such as spelt bread, chickpeas, lentils, and cheeses.
Pompeii was not just a center of wine production and consumption but also of culinary excellence, street food was already a thing in Pompeii. The city's rich culinary and social scene was exemplified by the popular thermopolia, a bar that sold hot and cold drinks and snacks. Many of these thermopolia were located around Pompeii, and they were a popular spot for locals to grab a quick snack for lunch or to socialize over drinks. Typically, a thermopolium was a tiny room that opened onto the street. While some of these bars provided seating for their customers, most had only counters, as can be seen in the many well-preserved examples throughout Pompeii. Inside these counters, 'dolia' jars contained various types of food and drink. In addition, there was often an oven at the back of the thermopolium, which was used to heat up snacks and to warm water for mixing with wine.
Pompeii was truly a hub of activity and excitement, with its bustling commerce, rich culture, and passionate appreciation for good food and drink. It's amazing to see that so many centuries later, some values have not changed. The love for great food, fine wine, and a vibrant community are all things we still cherish today in wine hubs like London, New York, and Paris.